Mention independent horology, and the discussions usually centre around beautifully hand-polished and spaceship-like watches. For those who are nerdier, it’s the names on the dials, and the people behind these creations, that make independent watchmaking wonderful and unique.
It’s quite possible to connect these independent watchmakers with each other, with the links forming something of a web. Peter Speake-Marin’s name is one that pops up quite a bit in this realm. Peter is known for his namesake manufacture, Speake-Marin, his watch dissections on The Naked Watchmaker, and more recently, launched Stoic, his new line of affordable watches.
Ladies watches, of the past 20 years or so, can often feel limited in range, an afterthought in designs. Quartz movements are often preferred over mechanical movement when it comes to watches for women. In all fairness, quartz movements offer distinct advantages when it comes to high jewellery pieces; it allows for far greater creativity in the case, dial, and bracelet or strap design, without compromising the basic time-telling functionality on artful pieces.
Spanning a variety of complications, metals and colours, F.P. Journe has one of the most diverse range of models amongst independent watchmaking brands. While the models on offer come and go, the Tourbillon Souverain has remained a staple in the lineup.
One of the more unique and distinctive dials on the watch market today is that of the Swedish independent brand, GoS. A collaboration between Johan Gustafsson, a bladesmith, and Patrick Sjoegren, a watchmaker, their watches use damascus steel, hand-forged by Gustafsson, using his own reinventions of ancient Viking smithing techniques.
Back in the late 1870s, Patek Philippe shipped a silver pocket watch to the jewellers Carlos Gondolo and Paulo Labouriau, and established a fascinating relationship with Brazilian watch collectors and aficionados.
The traditional dress watch is, perhaps, one of the more under-appreciated watch categories today. Finding something that is contemporary, simple, and elegant, while showcasing traditional Swiss watchmaking in a pure form, can prove to be somewhat difficult.
Peter Speake-Marin’s tenure at his namesake company came to an end in June 2017, after growing to have authorised dealers, brand ambassadors, and multiple lines of watches. Since its establishment, the brand relied on well-proven ebauches to power its watches, modifying the movements to Peter’s exacting standards.
Peter Speake-Marin’s Velsheda is a clear evolution from and development of the Piccadilly. Whilst many of the hallmarks have been retained, others have been given a fresh naval twist.
In 2017, Peter Speake-Marin left the company he started 14 years ago. In this multi-part series, we trace Peter’s time at Speake-Marin through three watches. First up: the Piccadilly, a unique time-only creation.
1971 saw the revival of the Ultra series with The Return of Ultraman. It’s in this particular TV series that saw an Omega Speedmaster 145.012 with a distinct orange hand being featured as the Monster Attack Team held their breath and counting down, quite literally, the seconds of Ultraman remaining in superhero form, thus earning the nickname Speedmaster Ultraman.